
Rent versus buy is one of the most consequential financial decisions most people will make, and it is almost always argued with slogans. "Renting is throwing money away." "Never tie up your cash in property." "Buying always wins in the end." Each one carries a grain of truth and none of them tells you what to do, because the honest answer depends entirely on your unit, your rent, your cash, and how long you plan to stay.
Our new rent versus buy tool replaces the slogans with numbers that are actually yours. Enter your postal code and unit, tell us the rent you pay or are quoted, and in seconds we value the property and place the monthly mortgage right next to your rent, cash outlay and all. It is free, there is no sign-up, and we ask for no personal details to show you a result.
Put a mortgage payment next to a rent figure and buying often looks more expensive. That is the trap. A rent payment leaves and never returns. A mortgage payment is split: part is interest and costs, and part is principal that you keep. The first number is an expense. The second is savings in disguise.
This is the heart of the comparison. The headline might say buying costs a few hundred dollars more each month, but once you see how much of that payment is building equity you own, the picture often flips. The tool surfaces exactly this: the monthly gap, and the portion of it that comes back to you rather than disappearing into a landlord's account.
The flow takes seconds, not appointments:
Enter your details: pop in your postal code, unit number, and the monthly rent you pay or have been quoted. That is all we need. Add your floor area if you want a sharper estimate.
We value and compute: we value the unit with Amicus, then run the mortgage at a 25% downpayment to find your true monthly cost.
See the verdict: your monthly mortgage sits right next to your rent, with the upfront cash, the equity you would build, and the gap between the two, all in one view.
No paperwork, no waiting, and no obligation to do anything afterwards.
The result is built to answer the questions that follow the headline number:
Monthly mortgage versus rent: the two figures side by side, so the comparison is concrete rather than theoretical.
The equity split: how much of each mortgage payment is principal you keep, separated from the part that is genuinely a cost.
The upfront cash: the full picture of what it takes to buy, including the downpayment, the share that must be paid in cash, and the amount that can come from CPF, with Buyer's Stamp Duty and legal fees sitting on top.
The loan amount: what you would finance, sized against the valuation.
Seen together, these turn an abstract debate into a clear, personal trade-off.
This is the part the slogans miss. There is no universal winner, only a fit for your circumstances:
Upfront cash: buying asks for roughly a quarter of the price plus stamp duty and fees, where renting asks for a deposit of one to three months.
Where the money goes: every mortgage payment builds equity you own, while rent leaves for good.
Price exposure: as an owner you gain if the property appreciates, where a tenant has no upside and faces rents that tend to rise at renewal.
Flexibility: renting lets you move at the end of a lease with little friction, where selling a home carries time and cost.
Maintenance: repairs are largely the landlord's problem for a tenant, and the owner's budget for a buyer.
The long run: the loan eventually ends and you own the home outright, while rent continues for as long as you rent.
Broadly, buying tends to win the longer you stay and the more the property appreciates. Renting can be the smarter call if you value flexibility or expect to move within a few years. The tool exists to make that trade-off concrete for your unit, not to push you one way.
The purchase price we compare against your rent is produced by Amicus, a Singapore data company operating since 1985, using the same automated valuation approach that banks rely on rather than a number we set ourselves. The model draws on close to three decades of transaction data and factors in location, floor level, built-in area, and recent comparable transactions. It is the same engine behind our home valuation tool, so the figure is grounded in real market data.
Being precise about the limits matters. The comparison is indicative and excludes Buyer's Stamp Duty, the physical condition of your specific unit, and a bank's own assessment, which it runs separately when you borrow. Treat the result as a well-informed starting point, not a substitute for advice when you are ready to commit.
If renting clearly wins for now, you have your answer and you have saved yourself a decision made on instinct. If buying looks close or favourable, the next question is which loan makes the monthly maths work in your favour. That is where we come in: Cashew compares packages across all major banks and lenders to find the rate that tips the comparison, and a Cashew advisor can walk you through your specific scenario. Free, and with no obligation.
Stop settling the rent versus buy question with rules of thumb. Pop in your postal code, your unit, and your rent, and see the real numbers for your home in seconds.

Your actual cash from selling an HDB flat is the sale price minus the outstanding loan, the CPF refund plus accrued interest, and selling costs such as agent commission, legal fees and any resale levy. Because the CPF refund (with accrued interest) goes back into your Ordinary Account rather than as cash, the amount available as a budget for your next home can be significantly lower than the headline sale price.

Upgrading in your 40s or 50s still works if you are already financially secure, because the amount a bank will lend depends on age plus loan tenure, not just income. If your age plus tenure exceeds 65, or tenure exceeds 35 years for private property or 30 years for HDB, the maximum loan-to-value drops from 75% to 55%, meaning you must fund 45% of the price from cash and CPF instead of 25%. The alternative is keeping a shorter tenure to stay at 75% LTV, but that means higher monthly payments, so the real decision is whether you can afford the bigger downpayment or higher payments while staying on track for retirement.
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